The secret of the lost river

I never really thought about what could flow through a city – besides, you know, a river. Or maybe a canal. But then I visited Valencia, and it turns out... In this city, a park flows instead.

The Jardín del Turia is basically a river-shaped park. It's even in the riverbed with bridges crossing over it. 12-kilometer-long green belt winds through the heart of the city, making it feel like nature carved its own path here. It is divided into several parts and you can walk through them one by one, like sections in a museum. And at the end, a treasure is waiting for you.

Where did the river go?

Well, it's not that mysterious. Once upon a time, a river flowed in Valencia... But then, after The Great flood in 1957, the city decided it was too risky to let the Turia River keep flowing through. So they rerouted it. That left behind an empty riverbed and a not so great idea to turn it into a highway.

Luckily, the people of Valencia had a better vision and rallied together with a movement called El llit del Túria és nostre i el volem verd (The Turia riverbed is ours, and we want it green.) And thanks to them, we now have this amazing park.

Of course, it didn’t just magically appear overnight, like those palace gardens in Asterix & Obelix. (No magic potion involved here.)

In our case, time worked its magic. And years of effort and passion from the ordinary people. Now, Jardín del Turia attracts over three million visitors a year, making it the most visited park in Spain. But it's still peaceful and pleasant here.

The old riverbed has been transformed into more than a dozen unique gardens and parks, each with its own vibe and different flora. Some are filled with palm trees, others with orange trees or pines. There’s even Gulliver Park, a giant playground inspired by Gulliver’s Travels, and Parque de Cabecera, a beautiful natural haven and bioparc with the zoo. You’ll also find here sports fields, dog parks, cycling paths, fountains and cozy cafés where you can sit and soak it all in.

And let’s talk about the bridges. Some of them are over 500 years old. And then there are the ones with holes – yep, actual holes drilled into them so that palm trees could grow through. So when you walk across the bridge above the "river", you’re strolling past treetops that are actually rooted in the park below you. Cool, right?

And then... the treasure!

Near the end of this green journey, you’ll find something truly special: The City of Arts and Sciences, a futuristic masterpiece that was named one of Spain’s Twelve Treasures. This massive cultural and architectural complex looks like it belongs in a sci-fi movie. It includes L'Hemisfèric, a planetarium and IMAX theater, L'Oceanogràfic, one of the largest aquariums in Europe, and L'Umbracle, a stunning open-air walkway filled with plants native to Valencia.

And there’s even an artificial lake connecting it all. So you can hop in a boat and take a ride.

There’s so much to see and do here, and it’s all 100% worth it. Just like the rest of Valencia, with its romantic old town, bustling port and the warm Mediterranean Sea. Not to mention, it's a relatively short, cheap and pleasant train ride from Barcelona. Just along the coast.

So, what do you think? Wanna hop in?

With love, Vi. ❤︎